Saturday, November 15, 2008

Full Circle back to Calcutta

Ten days later...:) the adventures have slowed down with the last two destinations. Travel by train was a major blessing, not only was I able to lay down, even SLEEP on the long night journey from Dehli to the holy city of Varanasi, I also met other foreigners to continue on with. Of the six beds in the 'compartment' we were all foreign, from the foreign train ticket quota given by the Dehli train ticket office.
Arriving at the busy train station, four of us, two Australian girls on their gap year and an exporter from Uruguay who lives part in Switzerland and part in Mallorca, took an auto rickshaw into the old and holy river city of Varanasi and searched for a guest house together using their thick lonely planet guides. We found a 'nice hotel' on Assi ghat, meaning door to the Ganges river, in the quieter area of town and commenced exploration of the city... Varanasi is famous for its cremation centers... the Ganga is a holy river capable of purifying one's soul, so I sat and watched bodies burning and relatives receiving mantras and blessing their loved ones, dressed in white with newly shaved heads. I was spellbound watching this intensely private family experience happen in public.. there is no privacy in this country, people seem more real in that way, because they don't hide.
We found a guest house the next day, more my style, large and spacious, utterly simple, inexpensive, and cozy, with us filling the place for the week:) A morning boat ride at 5am let us see people doing their morning rituals and bathing in the (very dirty) Ganges waters, we even saw a dead cow floating by and were instructed that children under 15 are thrown in with a stone and not burned like everyone else, that animals make it into the river, as well as trash, sewage and flower offerings.
The town was intense... beggars everywhere and very overly attentive vendors of 'anything' waiting to divert your attention and empty your pockets as soon as one steps out of a restaurant or store or guest house door! I did enjoy my long walks along the busy city and although it was not easy to see so much death, I also saw a lot of love as well and a lot of people seeking spirituality.
My last week in India has been spent in Calcutta. The weather has cooled and is perfect, no rain, not as hot, not as humid. My hotel is comfortable and homey by my new standards, and one of the cleaner places I could find as well. Again, I met Australian girls to Guest house search with. I revisited the family I know here and shared a simple meal and a few hours of baby holding and chat about my impressions of India.
I did a bit of touring finally, not volunteering as last time. The Sri Ramakrishna mission was a beautiful place with gardens and Indians meditating! a first for me to see! and the boat ride was crowded and fun to the Kali Temple along the water...Quiet week, even went to see the new Bond movie and today, a Hindi film complete with song and dance and silly laughter to help me follow the film since the language is foreign!:)
I say goodbye to crazy, beautiful India for a few months.

1 comment:

Charlene said...

All I can say is "wow". Your travels are eye-opening, real, scary, and so amazingly fulfilling. I'm glad to know that you are safe and not jumping back into the Ganges after hearing about the dead cows and other elements in that river. Much Love - Mama